Nut
Installed by Don Jensen
StewMac # 1891 Tusq($14)
Fret Dressing
Performed by Don Jensen ($50)
Wiring Installation
Don Jensen ($?)
Knobs
Kris Vockler, Elk antler. 2 knobs, 1 switch tip
What shape do you want your knobs? Simple cylinder, cylinder with rounded top, skirt base to knob (standard tophat looking knob where it's beveled at the bottom and a cylinder in the middle? Maybe a cylinder with ribs?
I also need to know what dial parts you are using so I can have you accurately measure the stem diameter, depth the knob sits on the stem, etc. I will probably buy one or have you send me one so I can be sure of the measurements.
Switch Tips
Vockler? Send her samples.
Allparts
Pickguard
Tele 69 Thinline ReIssue Natural Quilted Maple 836T/SKU #120836T ($80)
Pickguard Screws
Black ($5)
Bridge/Tailpiece
Joe Barden ($65) Vintage model
Electronics/Wiring
Stewmac Kit ($36)
Directions
Singlecoil 4-way switch mod method
Barden 4-way switch mod method
Learn about pots
CTS 250 linear taper pots
4700pF Tone Caps
TDPRI on pots
String Ferrules
Nickel ($7)
Jack Cup
Nickel ($3)
Neck Mounting Plate
Chrome, with screws ($8)
Tuners
[Tuners ($125)]Gotoh makes vintage Kluson-style locking tuner sets:
Nickel, standard dished-lozenge buttons (05M)
Notes from TDPRI: SDS510HAPM series has Rock Solid posts (they're extra strong and rigid, and to me, worth the very slight upcharge for that newer development; I have a set of both, and note the difference). Otherwise, they're both height-adjustable posts and use the Magnum lock system - the top of the post is a threaded affair which, under tuning tension, locks the string onto the static pin in the core - half to 3/4 of a turn, and you're up to pitch. Look much like vintage (though the Safe-T-Post feature is gone). The more recent ones (both series) feature a smaller through-post string hole for the e/b/g string tuners (marked with coloured dots on those 3 assemblies) for improved function (I haven't experienced the pre-reduced versions to compare).
Highly recommended; conversion bushings would be required as stated above.
String Trees
Strap Buttons
(Schaller Locking Buttons ($6); check current ones for match.)
Misc Parts to Check Before Ordering Anything
NOTES — READ FIRST
Consider a headstock decal
“partscaster” or “webbcaster” "Pixelcaster"
Theoretically, that could be routed out and have a black quilted maple “pixel caster” inset
Waterslide decal longer thread
Colt Knight's Technique
SMOOTH
Sand with the grain 220/320/400/600
Dampen with water to raise the fuzzies.
Sand with 600
Wipe with NapthaSEAL
Get Clear Grain Filler/Sealer
Use several coats to fill pores and grain, sanding flush with 220 between
coats.
See bottle or Birchwood-Casey site for cure times between coats.
Cure 24 hours.FINISH
Apply Tru-Oil with fingers or cloth in very thin layers.
Cure 24 hours after first coat.
Cure 2-4 hours between coats.
Lightly scuff with Scotchbrite 1200 or 0000 Steel Wool (Prefer Scotchbrite with a block because it's flatter) or equivalent synthetic every 3 coats. Blow off the steel wool bits/sanding dust with compressed air.
12 coats.
After the 10th or 12th coat, let it dry 24 to 48 hours. Then wet sand lightly with #2000. Let dry another 24 to 48 hours and buff with a good quality polishing compound like 3M Finess It II or Meguires Mirror Shine Scratch Remover. This should result in a super high gloss. If you want a satin finish, omit the buffing stage, and call it done after the #2000.
Oil finishes dry in 2 ways. The evaporative stage, which takes about 7 to 10 days, (If you can smell the fumes by holding it to your nose, it hasn't fully evaporated yet) and the polymerization, which usually completes after about 60 days. Only then will the finish be at full hardness.
FINISHING MATERIALS
Clear Grain Filler/Sealer
Cotton Gun-Cleaning Patches
220/320/400/600 grit sandpaper or synthetic
Sanding blocks
Scotchbrite finish sanding pad
0000 Steel Wool or equivalent synthetic
Naptha
Paper shop towels (blue)